Wednesday, 25 March 2015

The Power of Colour by Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2015


According to his Instagram bio, Roberto Cavalli “came into fashion for a chance to meet all the beautiful women. . . . ” And, you know, I bet he has. Certainly the type of women who like some flash and fun to go with their marabou and stretches of skin to show with their lace.




The hectic pace of the city evaporates into a salty ocean breeze as boats anchored at the dock inspire dreams of travel to distant places. The warmth of the sun and the power of color become intoxicating as the summer turns into an elegant adventure where comfort and lightness are synonymous of style.

The captivating Roberto Cavalli women flow onto the deck, encountering summertime and the desire for a carefree escape: for S/S 2015 the Florentine designer creates a collection in which shades of fire orange, cerulean blue, racing green and saffron yellow become the mirror of the summer.






Sensuality as a light breeze that moves across the silhouette of psychedelic floral prints on silk georgette; ribbons flutter lightly on the long dresses. Bands of striped multicolored jacquard and tulle give volume and weight to the pleated dresses, while the transparencies of white and pastel embroidered tulle express the carefree spirit of the season. Leather makes an entrance in high-gloss crocodile, reappears in polished python, and takes a turn as laminated quicksilver – techniques also applied to shoes and handbags.

Denim, a fabric that lies at the heart of the maison, is treated with a vintage effect and featured in combinations that are both surprising and effortless. Distressed and patched denim pieces are paired with pieces in guipure lace and yet other pieces of sheer white aristocratic beauty. Lace cut-outs lined with silver sequins give the black denim pantsuit their secret lustre.

Evening wear in fluid silhouettes enriched with lavish lace transparencies, the flutter of feathers, and the unexpected mix of animal print sequin beading with broderie anglaise. The new summer ocelot print is animated by slashes of cobalt blue lace, or simply seductive in its soft fluid shapes.





Cavalli is reigning king of the clubs, of the “oontz-oontz” parties where the gestures are less studied than thrown. And yet, this collection was somewhat pretty, even romantic in moments. According to team Cavalli backstage prior to the show, these designs embraced “lightness, a vacation when life is a vacation.”

Yet they also employed a real sense of balance: A clunky flatform sandal literally grounded some of the more outré looks, which included ocelot-print sequined dazzlers in floor length and mini, tasseled and banded-striped multicolored jacquard accordion-pleated dresses, lace-covered sequins, and the aforementioned marabou, here fashioned into wide, flouncy-bouncy trousers. Several looks turned down the wattage, too, when it came to the color palette: An array of white and pale-pastel confections in embroidered tulle became a surprisingly romantic gesture the one white lace broderie anglaise gown, replete with pale-pink and robin’s-egg-blue insets and delicate sequin beading, was entirely dreamy.






It was a completely different type of fantasy dressing, not intended so much  for dancing atop a banquette as for in a sun-baked Capri piazza. But hold on, hold on, hold on to your stilettos: The high-gloss crocodile was there, in a molded bodice on a halter dress and in strips on a truly sheer, pleated miniskirt. The polished python, too, in the moto jackets and the handbags. There was the aforementioned ocelot print, there were short fluttering hems and plunging necklines, tighter-than-tight silhouettes in which dinner before dancing would not be an option, and a series of zebra-print gowns, occasionally accented by a slash of tangerine-colored lace that caught more than a few appreciative glances from Heidi Klum, seated front and center and grinning widely throughout. And denim, a Cavalli signature, also made repeat appearances though here, too, it was lighter, lovingly roughed up to simulate a vintage effect. So it wasn’t all candy floss and pretty pastel daydreams, but perhaps for Mr. Cavalli, it was a dip of his crocodile-shod toe into the light side.

Discover Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2015 runway show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea 



















































Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of Roberto Cavalli
Photos by Kevin Tachman (stills), Kim Weston Arnold /runway)



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Peter Dundas took his last bow at Emilio Pucci last month during Milan Fashion Week, after 7 years with the brand but the designer won't be leaving Milan anytime soon. Last Thursday it was announced that the Norwegian designer will be taking over the reigns at Roberto Cavalli.






 

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