Thursday, 19 March 2015

Ermanno Scervino Fall/Winter '15/16

Ermanno Scervino constantly researches the harmonious union of opposites: colours, materials, volumes, apparently so different from each other but aimed to discover the shades of femininity in a couture language. For F/W 2015/16, Ermanno Scervino chooses the rigour and the patterns of masculine fabrics, among all the reinterpretation of pied-de-poule, making it macro - on mini bon-ton dresses – in order to express a new sensuality.

Is Ermanno Scervino doing … flats? You looked twice at the models strutting on the catwalk during his show today, just to make sure fashion fatigue hadn't hit you hard enough to blur your vision. But no, those were actually masculine bicolored lace-ups as flat as can be worn with a tailored black Le Smoking. Still, the shoes were heavily embellished, and a puff of filmy French lace seemed to sprout up from a sheer blouse, so it was apparent that Scervino's über-feminine style and love for glamour were still in place. This was confirmed by a series of looks featuring a very womanly silhouette. The dresses came with tiny, cinched waists blossoming into ballerina skirts whipped up like a soufflé. The coats were sumptuous in mink and astrakhan they seemed ready to be wrapped around the shoulders of a purring Italian diva. Elsewhere, a more modern feel came from military accents and some masculine/feminine play.

Corsets and tops with crystal embellishments galore were paired with houndstooth wool coats and dresses with geometric fur intarsia. To add to the luxe, there was a couture-ish version of a sporty duvet coat: White and voluminous, it hid a stiff corset inserted at the waist to make its shape round and sexy, enhancing the hips for an undulating, sensual walk.

Discover the Ermanno Scervino F/W '15/16 runway show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea

 Ermanno Scervino

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit / Source: Ermanno Scervino #‎ScervinoLive
Photos by Marcus Tondon / Indigitalimages

More To Love ... 

 The ELIE SAAB Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter collection is exclusively available to pre-order from March 12 to 26, 2015, on Moda Operandi here >>>
In Paris it is unusual to attend a show where the designer makes no attempt even emptily, disingenuously, or cosmetically at some artsy-fartsy proposition. Saab, to his credit, didn't bother. Instead he presented a collection heaped with leafiness: leafy printed macramé lace, leafy appliqué on leather, leafy chiffon, leafy-toned tweeds, and leafy-toned fox fur you get the drift.


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