“His soul is in Florence,” said Florentine resident Eva Cavalli on Monday in Milan referring to Italy’s new premiere Matteo Renzi. “It helps, and we’re all excited.” Renzi, the youngest prime minister in Italy’s history and formerly the mayor of Florence (Roberto Cavalli hails from the Renaissance city, too), was in his native city last week (along with Kanye West) to inaugurate Pitti Immagine and the start of men’s fashion week here as well as pledging 30 million euros to the Italian fashion industry. Intuitively, for resort Eva was in part influenced by archived Johnny Moncada photographs of Veruschka some taken on the banks of the Arno a vibrant moment for Italian fashion whose epicenter was beginning to shift from Rome to Florence and also the subject of a recent Rizzoli book From Vera to Veruschka: The Unseen Photographs by Johnny Moncada.
Cavalli captured the doe-eyed model’s Swinging Sixties era, and the youth-quake mood with a black romper suit reminiscent of a safari jacket with metal eyelets, a embellished leitmotif that ran throughout the collection, also seen on a column dress with silver grommets reminiscent of those on boat sails. A free-spirited vibe came through pretty broderie anglais tunics and flippy skirts, and tortoise print separates embroidered with Chantilly lace. That ineffable cool vibe was cut from cotton. Yes, cotton and Cavalli, and the results were pleasing. Romantic, white, floor-length dresses that seemed softened by time, some with prim collars and foil touches, and slim palazzo pants were standouts. Low sandals with chunky gold heels highlighted the collection’s youthful energy.
Of course, Cavalli’s exuberant vision of Italian glamour was accompanied by a variety of nature-inspired affirmations, including new prints such as okapi (a phantasmagoric relative of the giraffe if you were wondering) and lots of references to an armadillo’s armored shell. A pair of white jeans was enhanced by a tone-on-tone version of the creature’s distinctive patterned skin; featherweight python skin was edged in gold; and blown-up prints of fish scales were just the thing for beautiful creatures in search of a party this holiday season.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of Roberto Cavalli
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'A Dream Collection ... “Is a movie. Is a dream. Every collection should make you dream. I don’t know if you dream in black and white. I don’t know if you dream in color. For me it depends on the day. I’m dreaming in color now because it’s a very good time for me. I want you to dream… I want you to live a dream that becomes your reality… I want you to be in the spotlight… one you can enjoy … more sensual than ever…When I designed the new Roberto Cavalli Spring Summer 2014 Collection I wanted to create dresses that make those occasions even more special… a collection that enhances your natural sensuality… for sophisticated women to dream on…!" - Roberto Cavalli'
'Marrying the Cavalli woman’s apparent duality, the collection was heavy on outerwear. An opening series of tweed, python, and mink coats, some of which were inspired by military classicism like the addition of smart buckle detailing placed on collars and cuffs, rigorous python trenches, oversize blanket-style capes, and tailored pants with side stripes.'