A body-conscious silhouette has been the roadmap for Antonio Berardi since he started his label, but in the last couple of seasons he’s been exploring different ways around the idea of sexy.
The setting an empty office space in the London financial district with views of the entire city set the tone, and traders starting their day in the adjacent skyscraper were craning their necks to see the models come down the runway.“I wanted to loosen up the Berardi woman and make her look and feel more urban,” said the designer backstage after the show. “The idea was to create a wardrobe that she can wear before 6:00 p.m. as well as after dark.”
After last season’s monastic tone, a more athletic note came through for spring, and structured tees cut in shimmering leopard jacquard were paired with pleated minis a convincing and polished look for day. One long-sleeved top had the rounded shoulder of a football jersey, although clearly Berardi didn’t lose sight of a woman’s curves, and the oversize organza-and-lace pieces gave the collection a translucent lightness a leitmotif of the season overall. As a designer who works so closely to the body, Berardi understands the importance of a fabric looking and feeling good against the skin, and he has been known to line his dresses with velvet. The chiffon pants and sweeping skirts that were short in the front and long in the back had built-in silk underpinnings, adding a practical and alluring touch to the idea of sheer dressing.
Discover the Antonio Berardi S/S '14 runway show at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photos by Marcus Tondo (Indigitalimages) & Taylor Jewell
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