Should one always read the signs or what one imagines are the signs at a Marc Jacobs show? A dreamlike suspension of white clouds scudding high above the audience’s heads, drawing the eye up, a depiction of skyward freedom? The sound track that consisted of a lush yet melancholic orchestral passage playing as Jessica Lange intoned the words to “Happy Days Are Here Again.”
Discover Marc Jacobs' F/W '14/15 runway show at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea
From a bombed-out beach to somewhere over the rainbow in less than six months. Since his last turn for LOUIS VUITTON on theNew York runway in September, Marc Jacobs has left his post as creative director of Louis Vuitton, a job he held for a decade and a half (discover my post 'A Moody Spring by LOUIS VUITTON' S/S '14 campaign and collection). He's a full-time Manhattanite again, with a possible future IPO in his sights.
The clothes echoed that mood. "It's all a pose," Jacobs said when we told him so backstage. "What do you do after you've trimmed everything with every bead, sequin, bow, and black bit of tassel? You come up with something that comes from a very powerful place, but in a fresh and soft way rather than an aggressive way." This wasn't minimalism, though. It began with reduced shapes in restrained fabrics: a scoop-neck tank dress in double-face wool paired with matching pants, a clingy mélange knit V-neck accompanied by ribbed leggings that pooled over the tops of comfy sneakers. Like loungewear for some next-level spa or health clinic a feeling that was heightened by the models' fabric headbands and matching razor-cut bobs. As the show progressed, Marc Jacobs slowly added demonstrative pieces in more lavish materials, crescendoing with hand-painted organza ruffles on a strapless dress and dense crystal beading on a swirl-print tunic and flares with a lean, 1960s look. His shearlings, dyed in sunset hues, will go down as best-in-show in a week that offered plenty of choices. The chain-strap bags looked luxuriously efficient. A color palette of bone and ivory and beige and nude, a scheme of whispering neutrals that indicated a cleansing-like reset on everything.
The Courrèges-ish vibe that look gave off gradually got stronger as the show progressed, to scoop-necked tunics atop banded flared pants, before plunging full on into the season’s growing preoccupation with cozy sweater dressing; from Marc, that meant the likes of oatmeal ribbed tanks worn with leggings that puddled over sneakers, and very Sonia-Rykiel-in-the-seventies long-line sweaters with matching skinny scarves and slim skirts. Gradually, washes of stronger hues, like lilac, apricot, and aquamarine started to seep through, appearing on voluminous cropped bomber jackets, before sparkling as lean metallic dresses, or as an ombré on a series of heavenly tiered dresses. The overall effect was similar in mood, if not look, to the costumes in Spike Jonze’s brilliant Her; a sense of the past and the familiar unsettlingly recalibrated for the future. But that’s only my impression. As with all that Marc does, just stay in the moment and enjoy where his journey takes you right this second.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Kevin Tachman & Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages
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A Moody Spring – Marking Marc Jacobs’ final campaign for Louis Vuitton, the spring 2014 season features six of his muses including Sofia Coppola, Catherine Deneuve, Caroline de Maigret, Fan Binging, Gisele Bündchen and Edie Campbell (Coppola, Deneuve and de Maigret images are the first to be released). Photos by Steven Meisel.
The moment pre show and during the show are the most frenetic. Models gracefully glide along the catwalk but backstage they rush to change into their next look. Here a look at those backstage moments during the Fall/Winter 2014/15 fashion show.