For all the rococo romance associated with Italy and regularly reflected in many of the collections shown here, it’s easy to forget that, relatively speaking, Milan is an industrial-looking environment (made to feel even more so this week thanks to the persistent gray skies). So though it may have been unexpected to see one of the country’s most legendary design houses show a sleek, minimalist, and urban collection, as Salvatore Ferragamo did, it shouldn’t have been. And there are two reasons for this. One, as mentioned, Milan is a capital-C city with more skyscrapers on the horizon, literally and figuratively. And two, the label’s creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, started with the company as a men’s designer. So sharp, unadorned tailoring is as much a part of his personal heritage as Puccini is.
Enjoy the Salvatore Ferragamo F/W '13/14 fashion show & NEW! shop your favourite Ferragamo online now, at the end of this post! Love, Andrea
Elettra Wiedemann for Ferragamo's Varina photographed in Paris
"The Vara goes shopping ... shop your Icona by Salvatore Ferragamo" Ballerina "Varina" from Ferragamo
“This is my background,” the designer said backstage, commenting on the menswear influences in his collection. Giornetti’s confident and elated mood indicated, quite rightly, that he’s found his sweet spot: creating reductive and no-nonsense clothes. Take for instance, a crisp white coat with a covered placket, compact pointed collar, and simple strip of fabric tied around the waist. Its cleanliness made you remember just how well-constructed these pieces are. As did a perfectly cut, double-breasted black trench with a panel of navy pony hair. Which is not to say these clothes weren’t any fun. That beaded fringed black short skirt paired with a chunky turtleneck has places to go.
But what Giornetti’s austerity accomplished most importantly was allowing the accessories to shine. After all, that’s where this house got its start and its minimalist bags square camera shapes with metal-topped straps and understated satchels with crossover handles were some of the strongest of the season. And, again, their execution reminded you what an atelier in business for more than 80 years is capable of.
In the end, Giornetti put it best: “It’s a moment when it’s truly important to focus on the accessories and making the ready-to-wear extremely wearable.”
Idillio by Salvatore Ferragamo, your own precious Mermaid from the deep ...enjoy!
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo credits/Source: VOGUE
Runway: Photography by Marcus Tondo / InDigitalteam / GoRunway
Details: Photography by Gianni Pucci / InDigitalTeam / GoRunway
Spring/Summer 2013 collection & fashion show