Saturday, 16 February 2013

NYFW | Carolina Herrera Fall 2013

Carolina Herrera’s impeccably groomed models, with their hair twisted into 1940s chignon rolls, and lips of perfect cinnabar red, evoked the look that the designer herself cultivated in the seventies, when she was first launched onto the international society stage with her uniquely personal brand of lacquered Eva Perón–esque retro chic, a look immortalized by artists including Warhol and Mapplethorpe.

This season, Herrera’s clothes have that same cinematic quality if one thinks of the damn-the-expense extravaganzas that great Hollywood studio costumers such as Adrian and Travis Banton dreamt up for stars like Garbo, Crawford, and Dietrich. Even the sound track was made for drama a riff on Beethoven’s Kreutzer Violin Sonata by composer Tom Hodge, whimsically titled “Capriccio for Carolina.”

Enjoy the CH fashionshow-video at the end of this post! Love, Andrea

Covered up against the elements and possible charges of impropriety, the Herrera heroine is ready for her big close-up, framing her face with a pussy-cat bow, a standaway neckline, or a swathe of fur sable dyed plum or spearmint green. (And while we are at it, how about a purple calfskin evening skirt worn with a cerise velvet top?) There are wide-leg pantsuits for a Rosalind Russell or a Katharine Hepburn, perhaps, in flecked biscuit tweeds and crisp gray flannel, and decorous little dresses cinched at the waist with a statement velvet cummerbund that have a whiff of Wallis Windsor to them.

A print of eddying dahlia blooms enhanced the forties moodespecially in a hot pink colorway on black satin with a Shanghai Express flavor. Old-fashioned? Perhaps, but Herrera’s ladies want to look like, well, ladies, and their daughters will have fun playing dress-up. Besides, there is nothing sexier than leaving everything to the imagination.

The evening statements include such insouciant gestures as a hostess skirt of greige satin figured with bursting meteorites and worn with a black turtleneck bibbed in chestnut-colored mink, and solo-in-the-spotlight statements including a dramatic black sequined hooded sweater worn with drifting chiffon skirts, and a femme fatale gown of jade green satin with a lariat of self-colored sable tumbling down the back definitely for a star with above-the-title billing.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Runway: Photography by © Yannis Vlamos / InDigitalteam / GoRunway
Details: © Alessandro Viero / InDigitalteam / GoRunway

No comments:

Post a Comment

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...