Tuesday 18 September 2012

LFW | Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2013

"Eroticized Optimism" by Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2013 

Via Instagram by @andreajankeofficial

Christopher Bailey has been a tireless proponent (and fearless exponent) of the power of technology in building his vision of brand Burberry, using the notion of connectivity to further its place in the scheme of things. So there was something wonderfully human-scaled-old-fashioned, even (and not in a bad way), about taking the idea of intimacy into the physical, not virtual, realm, with his Burberry Prorsum spring 2013 collection. For what must be the first time ever, it was suffused with, well, sex. A kind of playful, joyful sexiness, albeit, with Bailey working everything around the cape and the corset. (And the trench, of course, but more on that later.) The words that sprang to mind were “eroticized optimism.”

How could they not, given that almost every look was seductively singing with color from the dusky country lane in the autumn shades Bailey typically favors (bramble, hedgerow green) to the somewhat 1930s lingerie tones (oyster, shell pink) to a full-on explosion of glorious, bold jewel hues (orange, purple, hot pink), the prodigious use of satin and cotton sateen bringing each and every one vividly to life. This cape-and-corset exploration was a means for Bailey to bring his silhouette the closest it has ever been to the body, then let the capes (most barely grazing the upper arms, though some much longer) create a tension between their volumes and the sinuous lines drawn underneath jackets that looked like they’d been stretched and seamed the body, or gleaming boned dresses that cleaved close to every curve they met.

Other times, he injected volume into the satiny coats and jackets, blowing them up through the shoulders, before tightly controlling the fullness with a belted waist. The standouts of this frisky show were, as ever, the trench coats. It’s quite astounding how much Bailey has been able to utilize them season after season as a vehicle for whatever vision he is pursuing. Next spring, you’ll see some of the best he has done: luscious deep-pink satin, with curved detailing around the bust; emerald lace; green-gold feathers; and, azure and sapphire leather. All shared one quality a sense of tactility that only made you want to get closer.

Selection by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credits/Source: © VOGUE
Photography by © Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway

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