Thursday 23 August 2012



Come fall, Yves Saint Laurent will do away with the most unpronounceable part of their name (surely to the relief of all the salespeople who have endured customers bungling the word for years — "Yives? Vess?"). Anyway, the label is renaming itself Saint Laurent Paris, according to WWD, as part of a larger branding overhaul spearheaded by new creative director Hedi Slimane. The new name will go into effect by the time that Slimane's first collection for the label hits stores for spring 2013. 

What will become of the brand's current initials, YSL, which make up the label's logo (and is what most people call it these days)? Apparently that's sticking around in some capacity, although the specifics are unclear. In other words, the future of that poor little Y seems uncertain at best. How quickly the name change will catch on is another question. "SLP" is hardly a catchy, distinctive set of letters, and vaguely calls to mind SJP, or the word "slop," or SLC Punk. Without further ado, we defer to Sesame Street's ode to Y.


Yves Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2012/13 Collection by Stefano Pilati

Stefano Pilati's last pre-fall collection started where his men's show for Yves Saint Laurent left off: with leather. Look number one was a trench that married a charcoal wool-cashmere flannel upper with a glossy black leather skirt. But unlike the men's show, this was no extended riff on Robert Mapplethorpe.

Rather, it was a love letter to the YSL oeuvre, with Pilati reinterpreting Saint Laurent classics for today. Leopard spots are just about as synonymous with the house as the trench; what gave them new life was how he filtered them through an urban lens, laser-cutting them onto a coat's lapels for a subtle, bas-relief effect, or boldly embroidering them in bronze silk thread and matching sequins on a black evening coat.

The designer's own staples got an airing, too. The success of Spring 2011's evening jumpsuits prompted a reprisal, but his time around Pilati showed them for a day with matching blazers or bow-neck blouses. Another blast from the past went back a few years more. This season's shoe is a Tribute 2 heel with a loafer last that he first introduced at his YSL debut in Spring 2005. Like the originals from seven years ago, these looked like they could be a hit.

Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: Courtesy of © Yves Saint Laurent
© Saint Laurent Paris

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