Thursday 5 April 2012

le69 paco rabanne

Paco Rabanne Fall/Winter 2012/13

Aside from the phenomenon of Karlie Kloss' walk, there was no grand finale at Paco Rabanne. An omission by design. After a high-drama debut last season, creative director Manish Arora wanted the big surprise to be the lack of a big surprise. He set wearability as his goal and looked for cues in heyday-era fans like Françoise Hardy and Brigitte Bardot. In fact, some of the freshest dresses were re-creations of Bardot's iconic stripey metal shift, a testament to the power of Rabanne's codes. Arora's versions are lightened up with discs in silicon and even royal blue ponyskin, a testament to his skill in updating them.

Enjoy Paco Rabanne Fall 2012/13 Fashion Show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea 

But his role as the new creative blood in a storied French house is probably one of the hardest of its kind. That's partly because of the specificity of what Rabanne did. You can easily shoot too far out of the Rhodoid park or stay stiflingly close to it. Arora seems to have a sense of balance, and a bottomless bag of new ideas. Some work, like the discs woven into highly wearable cardigans and pullover knits, and some don't, like the paneling of fluttery silk over metal disc dresses.

But it seemed like what sometimes weighed down this collection was Arora's attempt at a streamlined space-age sensibility, particularly in tailoring. It came across as less youthful than the Rabanne spirit should be. And a move into seventies disco decadence eventually turned a bit retro and convoluted.

Though for a good night out, Arora's Le 69 bags, now in gold and iridescent clutches, seem like just the thing. Sure enough, last season the bag business far outpaced the ready-to-wear at an enviable slate of stores. Arora will surely change some of those ratios with this collection, but the shift remains a work in progress.

The famous brand of the 60s Paco Rabanne, pioneering techniques for creating returns as a partnership with Comme des Garcons. Together, they reissued the famous metal chain bag, same design, but new colors and materials, recreated on calfskin bag base, disks with a dégradé of SWAROVSKI crystals and metal rings fully hand assembled. Paco Rabanne’s iconic Le 69 was the first ‘It’ bag and a symbol of the swinging 60s, created 1969 to match his metallic mini dresses. A futuristic mixture of kinetic art and metalwork, it was carried by stars such as Brigitte Bardot and Françoise Hardy.

 le69 paco rabanne available at LuisaViaRoma (€1.100,00 to €7.560,00)

About Manish Arora

With his first collection in New Delhi in 1997, Manish Arora was annointed the rising star of Indian fashion by the national press. Three years later Manish Arora represented India at Hong Kong Fashion Week and participated in the first ever India Fashion Week held in New Delhi, eventually leading him to the Best Women’s Prêt Designer Prize at the Indian Fashion Awards 2004.

Making his debut at London Fashion Week in September 2005, his work was overwhelming received by retailers and press alike. Rave reviews from influential fashion journalists such as Suzy Menkes, Hilary Alexander and Lisat Armstrong were instrumental in contributing to Manish Arora’s critical success. His collections are stocked in 75 major stores worldwide.

Invited by Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale, Manish Arora showed for the first time during Paris Fashion Week in October 2007. In 2011, he joined Paco Rabanne in the role of Creative Director of Women's Wear. His first collection for the house - Spring/Summer 2012 – was presented on the official Paris show calendar in October 2011.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Source/Photo Credit: © 
Photography by © Filippo Fior/GoRunway

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