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Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2012/13 by Christopher Bailey
For Christopher Bailey, the title of his latest Burberry show, Town and Field, signified two worlds whose codes didn't match. And he wanted to try and make them. It was a kind of metaphor for Bailey's big challenge of the moment - merging Burberry's physical and digital aspects which sounds like a much more daunting task than sticking herringbone bellows pockets on a tweed pencil skirt, one of the ways field met town in today's show. Another striking match was the brown corduroy jacket belted over a burgundy lace skirt with a substantial peplum.
Enjoy Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2012/13 Fashion Show at the end of this post!
LoL, Andrea
The peplum and nipped waist were vintage details Bailey carried over from pre-fall, with its echoes of the thirties and forties, but where that collection tended more to the austerity of the war years, this one had a little more flounce. Another key piece was a pencil skirt with a big diagonal ruffle. It had some shimmy to counterbalance the peplum's occasional clunk. And it said "Town" whatever piece of cropped outerwear it was paired with. So did floral-print faille and the tiers of fringes on Jourdan Dunn's cocktail dress, "Field" was represented by a herringbone jacket lined shearling, a waxed cotton parka, and country critters like sparrows, owls, and doggies naively embroidered on shirts, and printed or appliquéd on oversize striped tees. A capacious bottle green cardigan was comfy enough for country life, but its stylish swing back gave it some urban smarts.
Such an item suggested that, Bailey's reservations aside, the division between city and country was really somewhat artificial in a collection that wove a story out of Burberry's outerwear expertise and Bailey's ongoing fascination with casually gilded youth. There's something almost melancholy about such an idea. Gilded youth with inevitably tarnish. Maybe thar's why rain is a recurrent motif in Burberry-world.
Christopher Bailey, however, mixed upstairs and downstairs with a contemporary spirit of democracy from his model's tweedy urchin caps to their dainty lace-up ankle boots. There was an emphasis on the hips, with giant bellows pockets flanking the front of jackets and skirts, or a broad peplum flounce that all added volume below the waist. This created a silhouette that suggested the hourglass figure of the Victorians, or a brisk contemporary reworking of Christian Dior's nip-waisted New Look silhouette. Ruched velvet ribbon belts, flourished with a bow, cinched those waistlines tighter still.
There was more "street couture" in the thick woolen lace, and in flounce that ruffled down the front of skirts, but a golden zipper used to edge them brought them smack into the twenty-first century. There was Victoriana too in the shrunken jackets in courduroy or velvet, the leg-of-mutton-sleeved white cotton shirts, the darkly swirling floral Arts and Crafts prints, and in the strips of velvet that edged a peplum ruffle. as well as accessories such as the doctor's bags that fastened with pale gold owl-, dog-, or goose-head clasps, and the whimsical umbrella handles carved with similar animal motifs.
But the shapely down quilted puffer coats; the sweaters and tees with sweetly childish intarsia or embroidery of sparrows and owls; and the metallic glitter-fringe fabric used for pencil skirts and lean dresses added a thoroughly modern edge.
Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2012/13 by Christopher Bailey
For Christopher Bailey, the title of his latest Burberry show, Town and Field, signified two worlds whose codes didn't match. And he wanted to try and make them. It was a kind of metaphor for Bailey's big challenge of the moment - merging Burberry's physical and digital aspects which sounds like a much more daunting task than sticking herringbone bellows pockets on a tweed pencil skirt, one of the ways field met town in today's show. Another striking match was the brown corduroy jacket belted over a burgundy lace skirt with a substantial peplum.
Enjoy Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2012/13 Fashion Show at the end of this post!
LoL, Andrea
The peplum and nipped waist were vintage details Bailey carried over from pre-fall, with its echoes of the thirties and forties, but where that collection tended more to the austerity of the war years, this one had a little more flounce. Another key piece was a pencil skirt with a big diagonal ruffle. It had some shimmy to counterbalance the peplum's occasional clunk. And it said "Town" whatever piece of cropped outerwear it was paired with. So did floral-print faille and the tiers of fringes on Jourdan Dunn's cocktail dress, "Field" was represented by a herringbone jacket lined shearling, a waxed cotton parka, and country critters like sparrows, owls, and doggies naively embroidered on shirts, and printed or appliquéd on oversize striped tees. A capacious bottle green cardigan was comfy enough for country life, but its stylish swing back gave it some urban smarts.
Such an item suggested that, Bailey's reservations aside, the division between city and country was really somewhat artificial in a collection that wove a story out of Burberry's outerwear expertise and Bailey's ongoing fascination with casually gilded youth. There's something almost melancholy about such an idea. Gilded youth with inevitably tarnish. Maybe thar's why rain is a recurrent motif in Burberry-world.
Christopher Bailey, however, mixed upstairs and downstairs with a contemporary spirit of democracy from his model's tweedy urchin caps to their dainty lace-up ankle boots. There was an emphasis on the hips, with giant bellows pockets flanking the front of jackets and skirts, or a broad peplum flounce that all added volume below the waist. This created a silhouette that suggested the hourglass figure of the Victorians, or a brisk contemporary reworking of Christian Dior's nip-waisted New Look silhouette. Ruched velvet ribbon belts, flourished with a bow, cinched those waistlines tighter still.
There was more "street couture" in the thick woolen lace, and in flounce that ruffled down the front of skirts, but a golden zipper used to edge them brought them smack into the twenty-first century. There was Victoriana too in the shrunken jackets in courduroy or velvet, the leg-of-mutton-sleeved white cotton shirts, the darkly swirling floral Arts and Crafts prints, and in the strips of velvet that edged a peplum ruffle. as well as accessories such as the doctor's bags that fastened with pale gold owl-, dog-, or goose-head clasps, and the whimsical umbrella handles carved with similar animal motifs.
But the shapely down quilted puffer coats; the sweaters and tees with sweetly childish intarsia or embroidery of sparrows and owls; and the metallic glitter-fringe fabric used for pencil skirts and lean dresses added a thoroughly modern edge.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Photography by © Marcio Madeira/firstView
Find our Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2012/13
selections at Andrea's LYST
Find our Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2012/13
selections at Andrea's LYST
SEE ALSO ...
Spring/Summer 2012 Collections, Fashion Shows and Reviews
1 comment:
Burberry is classic elegance. I like the peplum waist tops with skirts to match, esp in lovely floral prints. Asymmetric skirts with frills are nice too.My favorite is shimmery fringe dress, in silver & red. I quite enjoy the pictures on your blog, dear Andrea, with a fabulous review!!!...Cheers,
Shagun
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