Wednesday, 14 September 2011

NYFW | Marchesa Spring/Summer 2012

New York Fashion Week - Fairytale-like by Marchesa duo Keren Graig and Georgina Chapman. They chose to solely focus their idea of evening around a shimmering, glistening watery palette of petrol, lilac, and platinum that was as pretty as it was irony-free was a blessed relief after the last few days. For Spring Graig and Chapman were inspired by Ilya Repin's 1876 painting Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom, and this lead to hourglass dresses - some long, some finishing around the lower calf, that rippled and undulated with pleated tulle fronds, crystal beading, or silvery chaine. ...

The two prettiest, however, were also the quietest: a pale, pale shell-pink bias-cut chiffon dress that, veiledsparkling beading, and a pale ivory dress that flowed from a scale-like embroidered neckline. Some of these were accessorized with feathery purses, but Marchesa also had two better ideas. One model's hair was dyed bright pink, and the hairdress looked fabulous against all the ethereality. The other was to have four drapper guys help each model ascend and descend, the few steps it required to get on and off the runway.

Quite a few collections have opted instead to tell their stories through white, cream, and ivory, but that's another story. Anyway, it's not that the endless visits to the vivid end of the color spectrum doesn't have its appeal, but there have been times when it has felt too cacophonous and loud and distracting; please, turn it down, just for a second. Ditto to all those abstract, digitalized, exploded, and graphic florals. 

Also it has to be said, occasionally it felt like some of those that got the directive Go Big on Bold Hues and Big Patterns acted on it without really thinking through how to work them in ways that will be understandable and desirable to the women who will be buying the clothes. It's like a Bollywood movie: You are dazzled by a lot of flash and color.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Source: © VOGUE
Photography by © Marcio Madeira/firstView

1 comment:

Shagun said...

Fairytale blends with surreal...Couture for a princess...I can imagine Princess Charlene wearing Marchesa gowns & looking ethereal...fantasy in designs...& such intricate, refined details..each dress is exquisite..feathers, embroidery,sequins...Heart stopping beautiful!!

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