GUCCI Pre-Fall 2015

For Frida Giannini’s penultimate collection for Gucci, the designer looked to a boyish glamour synonymous with a certain swath of the seventies: lean, tailored suiting in tweed, herringbone, and geometric jacquard, sharp and smart wool mélange blazers, and trousers coming cuffed and low-waisted or long and oversize, and all paired with tricolor python or leather pointed toe brogues, both heeled and flat.

Nordic-print knitwear in mohair, merino, and alpaca was dressed up by sparkling crystal embroideries that more brazenly sluiced around the worn patches on tight distressed denim like a topographic map. A cropped Persian lamb vest with inlay workings of geometric embroidery had distinctly retro-minded appeal (the type of thing you picture Anita Pallenberg snapping up in a souk), and true to form, the outerwear was fit for a seventies dream girl: military-inflected felted wool peacoats and rust-colored suede, a patchwork fox jacket that could have fallen straight off the Rolling Stones’ European tour bus, while a woven goat number in brick red and black seemed meant for professed Pallenberg disciple Kate Moss (Kate Moss for 'Jackie' Collection by GUCCI), who sat front row at Gucci’s spring show and who once received a fair amount of heat for a vintage monkey fur of a similar heft. An achingly soft apricot-colored cinched-waist shearling coat with long blush-colored Mongolian lamb trim was feminine without being fussy: as subtle a statement coat as you could hope for, and the kind you dream of welcoming next autumn in.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: The House of GUCCI

More To Love ... 

'Charlotte Casiraghi | The Face of GUCCI Cosmetics' 

“A passion project” - that’s how Frida Giannini describes Gucci Cosmetics, the first ever makeup and skin prep line. To celebrate the glamorous new collection, Frida hosted an equally glamorous party at The Carlyle in New York in June 2014 in honor of Charlotte Casiraghi the face of the line. Here, a sneak peek at the makeup-line, which was launched in September, available now in stores and on my blog.

LoL, Andrea

Fabulous fairytales out of the GUCCI's Holiday Collection - 

my Instagram @andreajankeofficial

Tweet

Share

Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2015

By the time you’re reading this, chances are you will have already clocked the Cara and Kate Show (my Instagram direct from the show) at Burberry Prorsum show. You’ll have listened to the trio of songs performed by James Bay. And, by dint of modern technology, you’ll have seen, via live stream, all 44 looks from the collection, and hell, perhaps even bought something, given that Burberry pioneered the opportunity to order live from the runway.

If any global brand works at the hyperspeed of today’s tech-driven world, it is Burberry, and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey has learned to tell his story of the season in a way that’s big and bold. For next spring, that story is this: Take something fragile and delicate (tiered dresses in what Bailey calls wing-pleat tulle, skirts covered in huge paillettes), worked with something utilitarian in origin if not in execution (nipped-waist denim jackets whose peplums might froth with feathers or shearling, trench coats painted with blown-up flora, and fauna illustrations taken from forties book-cover art). With this, Bailey offered up either his color-blocked sandal that’s a brilliant mash-up of a Birkenstock and a Teva, or pristine white sneakers, adding Burberry’s weight to the message that Everything Looks Better With Sneakers These Days.

Something vintage-y, something sporty, and something with a street vibe: It’s a way of dressing that’s as British as well, as British as the two superstar models that Bailey perched in the front row, and that covers the two decades that separates them, pioneered by Kate Moss in the nineties and taken up with a vengeance by Cara Delevingne today. Yet Bailey captured something else beyond that with this collection, something that started in New York City and was amplified and emphasized here: The turning away from all the über-athletic, ultra-graphic looks that have so defined fashion for the past few years, toward a vision of femininity that’s a little more graceful and gentle but no less powerful.

Discover the Burberry Prorsum Spring 2015 runway show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE

Phorography by Kevin Tachman & Yannis Vlamos(Indigitalimages)

More To Love ...

'Bloosmbury Girls by Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2014/15'

David Bailey took a moment to explain the title of the collection, 'The Bloomsbury Girls', which was inspired by the arty-crafty/literary cluster of people Roger Fry, Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell, and Virginia Woolf who inhabited the Bloombury quarter of London and Charleston house in East Sussex. “Basically, walls, furniture, fabric, anything that moved, they painted it!”

Tweet

Share