Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Midas Glittering Touch by LANVIN Spring/Summer 2014

“Shine!” said Alber Elbaz during a preview of his radiant and joyfully upbeat Lanvin collection, “but not the ‘bling-bling’ feeling shine as the idea of hope and positivity and light. That positive energy we are all looking for, that is very needed today.”

Elbaz had been in the South of France, “and it was shiny cars, shiny hair, shiny skin and diamonds that were shining a lot!” he laughed, “But the eyes weren’t shining.” So he decided that his collection, from beginning to end, would have the Midas touch glittering if not always golden to make the eye gleam.

Elbaz’s take ran the gamut from subtle gleaming black satin used for curvaceous little cocktail dresses to gilded python, to dazzling metallic lamés in a spectrum of colors from blush pink to viridian green, and the sort of exotic chiffon and jacquards that Yves Saint Laurent loved to use for his orientalist gowns in the 1970s. Elbaz called it “an homage to fabric,” he was inspired by the shafts of light in a Florentine textile workshop that illuminated thousands of brightly colored bobbins being woven into cloth of alchemical beauty, a painstakingly laborious process that is increasingly endangered. Elbaz took these very traditional fabrics, “and gave them a workout stonewashed them, crushed them,” to soften and modernize their texture and feel.

Elbaz also mixed color with the sleight of hand of YSL a cardigan jacket in electric pink over a platinum singlet with a midnight blue skirt, say, or a forest green jean jacket in quilted metallic tissue worn with a full maxi skirt in shimmering pistachio and riffed on the legendary YSL “Smoking” with short evening Spencer jackets worn with black drainpipe pants.

That brilliant fabric was also used for purses shaped like a cartoon robber’s swag bag, and for teetering sandals with jewel-encrusted heels, or mannish penny loafers that gave a cool attitude to the exuberant evening looks. Jewelry was as inventive as it always is chez Lanvin: this season, necklaces were weighted with giant cabochon glass stones magnifying the fabrics used to back them.

In a convincingly modern way, the textile brilliance blended the conventional distinction between day and evening clothes a tiered gypsy skirt in yellow tinsel chiffon, of course would look as great in the sunshine-y day as a parachutist’s jumpsuit in pink-gold worn for a gala evening.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE / LANVIN
Runway: Photography by Marcus Tondo / InDigitalimages
Details: Photography by Gianni Pucci / InDigitalimages

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