Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2014/15

Jason Wu has not one, but two shows this week. His debut collection as creative director of Hugo Boss will hit the runway next Wednesday. Before his own last Friday, he explained that the experience of working for the German company had him thinking about his namesake label's DNA. "It's going to be quite personal," he said of his new Fall collection.

Here’s something you don’t see every day: Adriana Lima in a suit. Lima, that Brazilian bombshell veteran of many a Victoria’s Secret extravaganza, is usually sporting a suit consisting of nothing more than a matching set of teeny-tiny bra and panties. But here she is opening Jason Wu’s show covered head to toe, as in not a single inch of her honed physique exposed anywhere. She wore a black wool crepe jacket that had been nipped at the waist, the back gently billowed with volume, a black silk chiffon high-necked shell embroidered to look like astrakhan (a recurring decorative motif here), and superwide wool crepe trousers, which Lima worked with a good old swish as she walked the runway. A colleague leaned in and said apropos of Lima, “It looks like she’s hunting for her next husband at a funeral.” So, there we have it, then, this is Wu’s women for this coming fall - The Sober Sexpot.

From then on in, the tone was set for Wu’s show, with almost every girl doing plenty of concealing and very little revealing, in luscious wintry shades of claret, eggplant, and forest green: swaggering coats cut wide through the shoulders and narrowing to the hips, shrugged over turtleneck sweaters; long bias-cut skirts in jacquard crepe or panne velvet; and, plenty more of those fluid pants, so skinniness, it’s R.I.P. for you. Wu’s collections have, in recent seasons, as even the most casual of observers would have noted, gone from a certain ladylike decorum, all First Lady photo ops, to a harder, tougher vision of womanhood, with fur and leather and lace galore worked into all manner of über-body-conscious looks.

Here, Wu went somewhat less hard corps, touching on the kind of urban poeticism that Donna Karan made her own in the nineties, which he then took and mixed up with the masculine refrain expected to be playing heavily during these New York collections. In Wu’s case, it manifested itself in his many well-cut coats, a look and attitude perhaps best exemplified on an androgyne beauty named Alana, shrouded in an aubergine top coat and trousers, her glossy dark hair closely cropped to her head. A peacoat slashed at the hips below four metal buttons looked great, and there was serious drama in an eggplant leather overcoat that hugged the thighs above a long embroidered chiffon skirt. Overall, the silhouette was long and lean, but not curvy the way his clothes used to be. A lilac wool crepe pantsuit conjured visions of Marlene Dietrich in full drag.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE

Photography by Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages

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