Tuesday, 26 July 2011

Métiers D'Art by CHANEL | From Paris, Byzance to Saint-Tropez

A tribute to the ancient Imperial capital, the CHANEL 'Paris-Byzance' collection combines French couture tradition with Ottoman magic, bridging the gap between past and present, Occident and Orient, Istanbul - a crossroads, swarming metropolis and a city of striking contrasts with ist mosques, secular neighborhoods, high-flying jet-setters and high-tech has been chosen by CHANEL for another showing of its Métiers d'Art collection.

"Hand-Made" Button -Maker Desrues / Photography by Delphine Achard for CHANEL

The Summer in Saint Tropez - 
                       Ephemeral Boutique by CHANEL

Located just a stone's throw from the Old Port and the Place des Lices, the Hotel La Mistralée - an imposing manor house dating from 1850 with ten individually styled rooms - provides the backdrop for Chanel's summer quarters.

The smaller parlour showcases a perfumery with a selection of fragrances, eyewear and other accessories. In the larger drawing room, whose ivory floor radiates light, designs from the Chanel 'Paris-Byzance' collection are presented. The black metal framed glass canopy is both plain and contemporary, and accentuates knitwear and shoes. Surfboards stamped with the Chanel-logo and a croquet set presented in a quilted leather case complement the scene.

Until October 2nd 2011, 10am to 9pm, 1 Avenue due Général Leclerc, 833990 Saint-Tropez, France.

"Hand-Made" Boot-Maker MASSARO 
Photography by Delphine Achard for CHANEL

CHANEL's 'Paris-Byzance' - The venue is a white marble terrace at the Ciragan Palace, a former residence of a sultan. It offers a place to admire the Bosphorus, lulled by the regular sound of the waves. The Bosphorus is everywhere: a part of the city and a stimulating yet soothing presence.

At nightfall, it is time to go inside the palace where the show's backstage area has been set up, Beneath Murano-glass chandeliers - no doubt reminders of the sultan's lavish lifestyle - the girls are being prepared with chignons worn very high on the head and eyes rimmed in black and red eyeliner. Models are standing in the wing dresses in tweed chasubles with hints of gold, velvet harem pants or draped chiffon dresses, all of Byzantine inspirations.

... Outside, the anticipation is building. The intelligentsia and local press start to arrive. The women all look, very beautiful and elegant tonight, in lots of black and outrageously high heels. Kirsten Dunst, Èlodie Bouchez and Cécile Cassel arrive. The show starts and the models descend the majestic staircase with an air of nonchalance. A steady ballet featuring these imperial sylphs is played out. ... The last models completes her run. The show is over and the elegant women of Istanbul are thrilled. After a glass or two of champagne, all the guests melt back into steady bustle and traffic of a city that never sleeps.

CHANEL 'Paris-Byzance', Ephemeral Boutique Saint-Tropez

Photo Credit/Source: © CHANEL
Photography by © Olivia da Costa & © Delphine Achard

More To Love ...

'Invitation by CHANEL 'Paris-Byzance'

Escarpins et accessoires CHANEL en backstage du shooting des looks 
de la VOGUE Fashion Night, 8 septembre 2011 á Paris via VOGUE Paris

Saturday, 16 July 2011

La Raison D'Être - VALENTINO Couture Fall 2011/12

"Living the present with detachment, focusing on subtle nuances and memories and transforming ostentation into chiaroscuro moods." Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli capture the essence of Haute Couture and elevate it to new heights. 

Sartorial savoir-faire is  now a private and personal indulgence. Opulence is transformed in a private dimension far from indiscreet eyes. Evocation has replaced urgent definition. There is a vibrant desire for decadent abandon. Using the traditional tools of the trade, Chiuri and Piccioli are writing a new language. A need for ornamentation is translated into control: luxury is now a lingering, impercebtible trace. Each garment is carefully made with dedication and expertise that come together to create a precious jewel.

Virtuosity, however, is hidden to the eye: a jewel only comes to life when it is worn. Luxury is now a private matter. No longer a point of departure but a point of arrival, it is the result of a long process of excavation and reduction both material and iconographic. It could not be otherwise today. Somber and elusive, the Valentino woman is an icon painted with the lightness of a watercolor. She seduces with martial subtlety and concedes nothing at first glance."

VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall 2011/12

Photography: Courtesy of Valentino

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