'The Pilot Episode' by EMILIO PUCCI Cruise 2016

Epic Hollywood films don’t have pilot episodes; TV series do. Designer Massimo Giorgetti admitted he’s a big fan of the latter, which explains why he called his first collection for Emilio Pucci “The Pilot Episode,” prefacing the transeasonal women’s and menswear that he showed in the grounds of a Florentine art school last night with a light touch of pop culture. “The mix between past, present, and future is very important to me,” explained Giorgetti, holding court beneath Massimiliano Locatelli’s fluorescent light display as models trained listlessly to the strains of the Vitamin String Quartet.

Their renditions of the Strokes songs expressed the clash of old and new that reverberates throughout Giorgetti’s Pucci debut: a visual feast of textures not-as-they-seem, a boisterous color mix, and ladylike silhouettes twisted with a retro frisson. Tackling his own decade-spanning challenge, Giorgetti treated Mr. Pucci’s iconic scarf prints to a twenty-first-century shakeup bold painterly stripes fell off the shoulder on a twisted lambskin shift dress or wrapped around a feather-belted silk slip in shades of black, candy pink, violet, and sunny orange.

Elsewhere, the new Tourists in Florence print came sketched across pajama silk shirts or picked out in macramé (if you look closely, you’ll even see President Obama hiding amongst the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio) in an incongruous moment of kitsch that was not, ironically, dug out of any house archives. A little easier on the eye, floral aquarelle prints were shredded and applied as a fringe or cut as lopsided tunic tops worn with mannish trousers, building moments of asymmetry and dynamic surface play that culminated in a reverse fil coupé jacquard coat. Inside that coat, Giorgetti revealed, was traced the filigree swirls of the fleur-de-lis or Florentine lily, the same flower he has integrated into the new mirrored P logo, an omnipresent symbol that came emblazoned across stacked heel silver loafers and a thatched tote, or woven into a Lurex skirt.

 “At the beginning of his career, Emilio Pucci was very free; he didn’t conform,” said Giorgetti, reasoning with his own radical side whilst fingering the laser-cut nylon of a deep blue duster coat. “Before he was famous for print, he was celebrated for his daywear like ski pants, leggings, technical fabrics, jersey, and nylon. I would like to rebuild the same attitude not only in the clothes, but towards the fashion system too.” And with Pucci CEO and heir Laudomia Pucci cheering on from the sidelines, he just may have found the time, and the place, to do it.

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Photo Credit/Source: The House of EMILIO PUCCI

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'GUCCI Fall/Winter 2015/16 Ad-Campaign'

GUCCI Fall/Winter 2015/16 Ad-Campaign, photographed by Glen Luchford (via Instagram) and featuring models Tessa Charlotte Bruinsma, Tobias Lundh, Lia Pavlova and Sven de Vries.

Enjoy GUCCI summer sale with free express shipping,

to shop please click here on gucci.com.

LoL, Andrea

Click on the link or GUCCI-banner to shop the collections
on summer sale with free express shipping - enjoy!  

LoL, Andrea 

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The Lighter Spin by VIONNET Cruise 2016

Spring has sprung at Vionnet: The Resort collection was presented in a showroom that had been transformed into a garden replete with ivy, lilies, and various other types of flowers. The spring-like mood trickled down to the lineup, infused with delicate colors and references galore to nature in bloom. "I wanted to bring about a new freshness and give our heritage a lighter spin," said Vionnet's owner and head designer, Goga Ashkenazi, twirling around with ebullient energy to make her point. The colors she used boasted ineffable names such as thorn apple green, bluebell blue, moonflower pink, angel's trumpet yellow, catchfly pink, and datura nude. The nature theme was translated into geometric, slightly constructivist shapes softened by the use of liquid plissés and fluid fabrics.

A picture from the Vionnet archives of a sumptuous evening dress embroidered with tulips was the reference for watercolor prints in which the motif was digitally exploded, as in a glove-soft bonded-leather raincoat. It was also used for intarsia appliqués on sleek jackets and tops. The silhouette was elongated, such as a column skirt topped with a short leather cape in pale blue or a narrow aqua macramé midi skirt paired with a sporty-chic sweatshirt in silk mesh. The house signature plissé soleil punctuated the collection. Printed circle skirts were worn with bomber jackets; asymmetric peplum leather "belts" enhancing the waistline ingeniously morphed into tops. Sporty daywear looks and masculine tuxedos in pastel hues were counterbalanced by the glamour of languid evening dresses. Draped in cascading liquid silk jersey, they were clearly aimed straight at the red carpet.

Discover the VIONNET Fall/Winter 2015/16 fashion show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea 

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Photo Credit/Source: The House of VIONNET

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'GUCCI Cruise 2016 Presentation in New York'

For resort 2016, newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele chose to set the stage for Gucci on foreign shores, in New York City’s art district. While his history with the Italian house goes back more than a decade (he’s worked on the design team since 2002, when Tom Ford was at the helm), it’s clear that the Roman-born designer is intent on steering the brand in a completely new direction.

 

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