Showing posts with label Resort 2013 Collection. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Resort 2013 Collection. Show all posts

Wednesday, 11 July 2012

Resort 2013 Collection | Christian Dior

 


Christian Dior Resort 2013 Collection by Bill Gaytten

In one of those occurrences that only seems to happen in the fashion industry, the future can be the past before it has even happened. This temporal shenanigans is the case at the house of Christian Dior, where in the same week that Raf Simons, Dior’s new creative director, unveiled his debut during the haute couture, the collection designed prior to that, resort, was also being shown. The latter was the responsibility of interim design chief Bill Gaytten, who is still doing the honors at John Galliano. In the meantime, though, back to the resort, which will appear on the racks a matter of months before Simons’s premiere ready to wear starts to show up. (Don’t worry, it will soon all be much clearer.) 









Gaytten wisely decided to go back to the house codes for resort; a pause always makes for the ideal moment to retrench. He drew heavily on the Bar jacket, that cinched-waist, peplum-flared icon of Dior’s 1947 New Look for the basis of the collection, working it in scarlet wool (over a ballerina-style net skirt, a wink to the weighty circular skirts that were originally designed to be worn with these molded jackets) or in a dusky, pinky mushroom leather. He worked with the notion that the streamlined “bar” could be the linchpin of a modern wardrobe, variously partnering it with pencil skirts or lean pants, suffusing it with a sportier, more urban attitude.






There was plenty of streamlining here, in fact, a kind of reductive process so that the trademark silhouette, focused on waist and hips, was rendered in graphically patterned banded skirts and short dresses in bold, flat florals. What you won’t see as you click through the images of this collection, however, are some totally charming pieces that weren’t part of that narrative, and are worth seeking out. There was, for instance, a wonderful evening dress with a three-dimensionally embroidered bodice and a narrow silk gazar skirt with a panel cascading down across the hips. And two somewhat 1970s-era pieces were also good: a soft, bloused beige silk dress strewn with printed flowers, the kind of dress whose throw-it-on-and-its-perfect quality means it will stick around in the closet for years, and a geometric silk-scarf-style printed pajama shirt that could give you an easier, less constructed alternative to that iconic jacket.


















Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: Courtesy of © Dior  



Tuesday, 26 June 2012

Resort 2013 Collection | Alexander McQueen




It’s been a long time since designers put much thought into tailoring a great pantsuit for a woman, but Sarah Burton herself a trouser person has been turning her attention to it for resort. After three seasons of crafting spectacular dresses almost exclusively, she’s plainly feeling more like taking on the menswear-derived side of Alexander McQueen’s legacy. “I thought it would be nice to go back to the body. To be sleeker, more sexy,” she said. “We had been doing a lot of peplums, but we took them away to make the torso fitted and wanted to visually elongate the legs as much as possible.”








Lee McQueen trained in men’s tailoring on Savile Row, of course a memory which is still very much alive in that bastion of British tradition. Only the other weekend, at opening day for the London menswear shows, his former co-apprentices at Anderson & Sheppard were remembering how the teenage McQueen applied himself for days, nights, and years to mastering the techniques that go into cutting a flattering gentleman’s suit. What he came out with was the ability to adapt the template to his own version for women, often topping it with a fairly swaggering tailcoat or topcoat. Now his own apprentice is adapting it further changes brought about by time moving on, and perhaps the fact that the perspective is more female. There are no bumsters in this collection, for instance Burton’s pants reach the waist (and sometimes higher, in one case, to be cinched with a wide patent belt inset with a jeweled chain). Although trouser legs are bootcut (as many of the McQueen originals were), the fabric Burton uses for her most stunning black tuxedo pantsuit with white revers is a drapery crepe, not McQueen’s favorite more rigid menswear material. The shoulders are peaked, but the gradual softening of structure Burton is bringing to the collection continues. And, when it comes to the chic combination of a tunic dress over fluid pants seen halfway through the collection, that’s an innovation of her own.









To get to this new balance of masculinity and femininity, Burton researched pictures of David Bowie in his gender-blurring Glam rock early seventies phase, Art Déco, and the gilded paintings of the Viennese Secessionist Gustav Klimt. It goes without saying that there are dresses in great variety pleated, gold-pailletted, and one a feat of marquetry-like patchwork on metallic snakeskin, all familiarly McQueen. It’s just that the eye always focuses more on the new. Which brings us to another point of McQueen evolution in this collection the jewelry. It appears as chain links on shoes as well as on belts, and there’s a new crystal circlet necklace, which is bound to be an instant object of lust.

















Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photos: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen


Enjoy 

'Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2012' 











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