Monday, 7 October 2013

Medea by VALENTINO Spring/Summer 2014

'Some days ago, an air of quite excitement descends at Place Vendôme as the countdown to Maison Valentino Spring/Summer 2014 show begins ...'

Tuesday, October 1st, 2:00pm - Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries, and just 2 hours before I met Pierpaolo Piccioli in person with his little entourage, in the lobby of Hôtel Lotti, 7 Rue de Castiglione, stay tuned for my personal impressions to be posted soon. 

Back to an mazing fashion scenery inspired by Inspirations of Medea, a film by Pier Paolo Pasolini based on the plot of Euripides' Medea. Filmed in Göreme Open Air Museum's early Christian churches, it stars opera singer Maria Callas in her only film role. She does not sing in the movie.

Discover VALENTINO Spring/Summer '14 runway show at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea 

Wonderful news: during this post you will discover some amazing
VALENTINO S/S 2014 Accessories to pre-order for the next 5 days
(ending October 14th, 2013).

Happy shopping! LoL, Andrea

To be started with Cara Delevingne's 

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli immersed themselves in opera as they were designing this collection. Images of Maria Callas, playing the vengeful Medea in Pier Paolo Pasolini’s 1969 film all stark robes and stately golden jewelry stuck in their minds. Further delvings into the costumes and drawings at the opera house in Rome, and then more research into traditional peasant needlework and “humble” fabrics became part of the thinking. Then months of work went into making heavy fabrics look light. The micro minidress with beaded lace collar that opened their Fall collection has been replaced by a more worldly and well-traveled fringed cape embroidered with turquoise, coral, and red in a pattern that was hard to pin down.

It’s so clear who the Valentino woman is today, and why so many want to be like her. The combination of serenity and self-possession in the faces of the models, each of whom looks like a fleeting memory of some historical portrait, is a compelling part of it. This season, those women had minimal antique gold-studded leather circlets in their hair and gold chains with mythical-beast pendants wrapped at their throats, and were padding the runway in flat Greek sandals.  

Pre-Order Now!

So amazing!

Innocence, then, has been replaced by something not altogether darker for Spring, but certainly more mysterious. It lent a richness to Chiuri and Piccioli's recognizable silhouettes. As they said beforehand: "It's a fashion opera. A show has to be a show." Even as flat sandals adorned with golden scarabs reasserted the realness of the collection, some of the long black lace gowns embellished with brightly colored details looked not all that unlike costumes or indigenous dress elevated to the hautest levels, of course. It's exactly this sort of stagecraft that has the world's most photographed young women vying to wear Valentino; they were all there today arrayed in the front row. And they'll rush to get the more ornate pieces here: a dress patched together from silvery squares that looked like armor, a monastic romper (interestingly, not an oxymoron chez Valentino) in organza embroidered with tiny strips of leather.

As at their July Couture show, Chiuri and Piccioli savvily balanced the extraordinary workmanship of their evening gowns with not-quite-humble daywear: crisp blue poplin shirts, cropped khaki pants, a suede dress with a fringe-trimmed cape back, and even a pair of jeans if you can call them that in dark denim with deep ruffles that began north of the knees. For the non-jet-setters in the audience, the really remarkable thing about these designers is that a rugby-striped cotton coat can cast as potent a spell as a dramatic gown made from the finest filigreed lace.

Pre-Order Now!

My Must-Have!

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Still: VALENTINO showroom, Place Vendôme, by ANDREA JANKE

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Runway: Photography by Fabio Iona / InDigitalimages
Details: Photography by Gianni Pucci / InDigitalimages

More To Love ... 

'As couturiers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli found the idea of the Wunderkammer particularly appealing. "In a cabinet of curiosities, the pieces are very unique, very one-of-a-kind," Piccioli said. "We've tried to make something that is not only special, but also surprising, unexpected."


'Giambattista Valli is never one to take any reference too literally. Regardless of whether he’s been watching Grey Gardens Resort 2013 or thinking about Valli's Fall/Winter 2013/14 collection, adapting menswear fabrics and tailoring to a woman’s wardrobe which was an idea that almost every designer this season has addressed in one way or another, marrying the aesthetics of the opposite sexes.'

No comments:

Post a Comment

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...