Glam rock met pop art in an ornate British palace in St James, courtesy of Mr. Tom Ford, February 18th.
It was, effectively, his first fully public comeback runway show since
he founded his own label. and it hit an exuberant none-too-serious note.
There are plenty of people doing black and gray and sensible tailoring
this season. Tom Ford, instead, cast himself as a standard-bearer for
all the maximalists and fun-lovers of the world, dealing out
multicolored sequined hoodies and bomber jackets, leopard-spotted
parkas, swishing Western fringe, flower-embroidered boots, and pop art
Shazam and Ka-Pow motifs by the yard. You might almost have suspected
Ford of reverting to his disco-partying years, except the song in the air
had the pointed refrain “stone cold sober.” Mr Ford, after all, is a
responsible new dad these days. Though perhaps having young Alexander
John Ford at home might’ve made him more playful.
Ford's label for the collection was “Cross Cultural Multi Ethnic” the words he had printed on a discreet card left on the gold seats lining the grand reception rooms of Lancaster House (it’s an ex-royal residence just a stone’s throw from Prince Charles’ London home, Clarence House, and just up the road from Buckingham Palace). The location might have lent itself to an essay in upper-class Englishness, but thankfully, no. Uptight British conventionality was not on the agenda at all, although possibly the upcoming Lichtenstein retrospective at Tate Modern and the “David Bowie Is” exhibition at the V&A might have been partially responsible for Ford letting loose with so much color and pattern. Besides, you can’t live in London long (as Ford does, on and off) without being conscious of the fact that there’s a subcult amongst East End fashion students and club-goers that adorns itself, head to toe, in as much color as possible. It’s no stretch to imagine those kids going absolutely crazy for Tom Ford’s floral sequined baggy-top boots and eighties-style zig-zag-patterned varsity jackets. Vintage Chinese coats and Japanese kimonos are currently being sported around Central Saint Martins’ fashion classes, and there was an upgraded blue silk flower-embroidered version with a vivid red fur collar on Ford’s runway.
Still, those living on student loans are hardly the multiethnic market Mr. Ford aims for. His fast-growing business means he has customers and stores on many continents, and what those customers look for, presumably, is something vividly outstanding and glamorously sexy from Tom Ford. That, they’ll get, if they so choose, in his fuchsia patchworked fur and ponyskin coats (or even a whole, pencil-skirted suit), in his shimmying beaded ponchos, and, if they’re daring, in the see-through black lace skirts and column dresses. It all looked beautifully made.
Ford's label for the collection was “Cross Cultural Multi Ethnic” the words he had printed on a discreet card left on the gold seats lining the grand reception rooms of Lancaster House (it’s an ex-royal residence just a stone’s throw from Prince Charles’ London home, Clarence House, and just up the road from Buckingham Palace). The location might have lent itself to an essay in upper-class Englishness, but thankfully, no. Uptight British conventionality was not on the agenda at all, although possibly the upcoming Lichtenstein retrospective at Tate Modern and the “David Bowie Is” exhibition at the V&A might have been partially responsible for Ford letting loose with so much color and pattern. Besides, you can’t live in London long (as Ford does, on and off) without being conscious of the fact that there’s a subcult amongst East End fashion students and club-goers that adorns itself, head to toe, in as much color as possible. It’s no stretch to imagine those kids going absolutely crazy for Tom Ford’s floral sequined baggy-top boots and eighties-style zig-zag-patterned varsity jackets. Vintage Chinese coats and Japanese kimonos are currently being sported around Central Saint Martins’ fashion classes, and there was an upgraded blue silk flower-embroidered version with a vivid red fur collar on Ford’s runway.
Still, those living on student loans are hardly the multiethnic market Mr. Ford aims for. His fast-growing business means he has customers and stores on many continents, and what those customers look for, presumably, is something vividly outstanding and glamorously sexy from Tom Ford. That, they’ll get, if they so choose, in his fuchsia patchworked fur and ponyskin coats (or even a whole, pencil-skirted suit), in his shimmying beaded ponchos, and, if they’re daring, in the see-through black lace skirts and column dresses. It all looked beautifully made.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Photography by © Yannis Vlamos / InDigitalteam / GoRunway
For my German-based readers and TOM FORD-aficionados:
Find the TOM FORD store in Munich
The 1400 Square foot, two-story franchised flaghsip store is located at Falckenbergstrasse 9 (adjacent to Maximilianstrasse facing Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten), 80539 Munich, Germany.
Contact:
Phone +49-(0)-21 02 08 87
Email tomfordmunich@marionheinrich.de
The 1400 Square foot, two-story franchised flaghsip store is located at Falckenbergstrasse 9 (adjacent to Maximilianstrasse facing Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten), 80539 Munich, Germany.
Contact:
Phone +49-(0)-21 02 08 87
Email tomfordmunich@marionheinrich.de
2 comments:
I'm in love with the coat (Photo No. 22 of 36)! I really want to try it on to see... Where can I find it???
I'm so IN LOVE with the coat (Photo No. 22 of 36)! I really want to try it on me... Where can I find it???
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