Thursday 4 October 2012

PFW | VALENTINO Spring/Summer 2013

What do you do when you’re in charge of a house that is all about fragile, fairy-weight prettiness, and fashion portends to turn dark, tailored, and structured? Well, if you’re smart, rise above it gracefully. That’s exactly what Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli did at Valentino in a collection that trod its own path, an authentically Roman road back to a point in the Italian forties and fifties that resonates gently with the the way of the world now. Think of raven-haired, voluptuous “passionatas” in their slips and devout Catholic ladies on their way to mass, and then lay them aside for a second. This may sound like Dolce & Gabbana’s territory, but the Valentino pair deftly used the imagery to pluck out what they needed: images of lingerie and soberly prim (if not actually clergy-like) attire.

Enjoy the VALENTINO Spring 2013 fashion show at the end of this post, and further insights to this wonderful Roman label! LoL, Andrea 

They’d been looking at Italian neorealist cinema, movies made by the likes of Roberto Rossellini and Vittorio De Sica in and around Rome’s Cinecittà studios or, more accurately, at the generation of actresses like Anna Magnani and Silvana Mangano who starred in them. It was a cleverly and sensitively thought-out collection with a quiet undertone of eroticism literally sewn into the seams and underpinnings. Vulgar displays of flesh aren’t the Valentino way, but the opening dress a neat, plain black camisole slip showed glimpses of nakedness between panels that were linked together with the delicate threads of the fagoting technique that is a house speciality. They worked their expertise in making silhouettes that are both completely covered-up, yet light and transparent enough not to be frumpy. One black lace dress with long sleeves had a minimal buttoned-up shirt collar through which an underslip could be seen in the bodice and hem. Another white cotton skirt suit was aerated with cutouts in the pattern of daisies. And so it went, in a carefully measured way, punctuated with chic non-themed trenches, one in red leather, another in watersnake, and a third in see-through plastic.

Despite gently nodding toward severity and minimalism, the designers still had their way with prettiness and femininity. There was a moment for puff-sleeved forties flower-print day dresses with delicate scalloping at the edges; a moment for their stunning signature lace in a long white confirmation dress. And then there was an all-out finale of beautiful gowns that, in a season when special eveningwear has largely gone missing from the runways, is sure to bring yet even more young women into the growing flock of the Valentino faithful.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Runway: Photography by  © Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway
Details: Photography by © Alessandro Viero/GoRunway

Collection, Fashion Show and Review

'Black is Back | VALENTINO Fall/Winter 2012/13'

Collection, fashion show, review, and my personal impressionof
 VALENTINO, Via Monte Napoleone

Photography by ANDREA JANKE -
Please, join my Instagram @andreajankeofficial

Love, Andrea

1 comment:

photographers abu dhabi said...

I love your outfits!i feel like that is such timeless style!love it classic!you look so sophisticated are doing well!

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