Saturday, 26 October 2013

Luxurious Sobriety by YULIA VITAL Spring/Summer 2014






During my ride  through Paris last month for Fashion Week, I discovered a wonderful 'Collection-Prémiere' - YULIA VITAL. The American designer, based in Los Angeles, presented for the 1st time ever her collection at Hotel Lotti, 7 Rue de Castiglione, in a splendide showroom apartment. Enjoy my  personal insights on this wonderfully shaped collection. LoL, Andrea





 


'The New Brave Feminity - In the center of the Yulia Vital vision is the ideology to design for the modern woman. She captures the elusive spirit of that powerful complexity at the very essence of the new woman of style. Using texture, form and sculptural techniques, every piece introduce new dimensions - a world of soft layers, color shades and depth. There is true architecture, created from lines, shape and structure. Inspired by the industrialized world, Yulia Vital seeks to embody the strength and sophistication of women today ...






... Inspired by the industrialized world, Yulia Vital secks to embody the strength and sophistications of women today. In the fast changing, ever evolving, digital overload known as the 21st century arises a new brave feminity; a strong female figure that strays away from the glamorous, over-the-top, in your face lifestyle of those struggling with the superficial manifestations of a culture in economic and political ruin. Instead she embarks on a spiritual journey, one of enligthenment, taking her to the distant and beautiful landscapes of Asia and Europe, looking for something more to believe in. Preferring the simplicity of luxurious sobriety she is in a perpetual state of wanderlust, a need and a desire for seclusion and contemplation, a voyage of self reflection ...






 


 ... Her road is a long one, her journey never really complete, the search for true beauty and perfection always a step ahead. Her uniform protects her from the elements and reflects her monastic and tranquil state of mind, a sub-dued, wrapped, and draped silhouette, a modest covering of the body, an abandonment of sensual pleasures, and a muted colorless palette reflect her inner aura. Caught bewtween her natural environment and the simplicity and structure of minimalist modern living, she is guiding heroine of the season..' - Yulia Vital




 YULIA VITAL
1222 North Olive Drive, Suite 104
West Hollywood, CA 90069
Fon 001 - 310 935 1527 / Fax 001 - 310 935 1587

Contact to Mr. Ezra Woods


Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photos / Videos: Courtesy of ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 



'For Fall/Winter 2013/14 the stylistic duo Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco presented a decisively noir mood. The cinematographic world of mystery, spying, and secrets has given life to a heroine dressed in dark shades, sado-chic suits in leather, overcoats trimmed in fur, transparent-like webbing, and the infallible trench. The evening is also charged with dark seduction through long, tapered dresses that show off shoulders and cleavage or with attire that is entirely embroidered.'







Tuesday, 22 October 2013

Behind The Scenes | DIOR Spring/Summer 2014 RTW





It all started with an orchestral tune-up and a drum roll. The music set the tone: the piece in question, "From the New World", the symphony by Antonín Dvořák, seems to have been drawn from some far-off modern horizon. "I don't want people to be able to know exactly where these women come from, or where they are going, but that they exist in a place in flux, where everything seems possible" , explained Raf Simons in a preamble to his collection. 





From the first looks to appear one could recognize Christian Dior's emblematic silhouette with its bust and shapely hips, its whittled waist, a figure-of-eight silhouette to better flatter the shape of a woman's body. But this silhouette is culled from another, new world. It's a roomy jacket that crosses over tightly under the bust as though belted by a martingale; it's a short, in culotte form over the hips, fluttering into a pleated skirt; it's an opening in the construction of a jacket for a peek of flesh at the waist; it's silk that drapes around the body, outlining the female form through its own asymmetry. Everything is conceived in order to heighten female beauty. This reinterpretation of the New Look is a play on the past and the future, a dialogue between two modernities so close in language but yet so far apart in expression, between which so many collections have come into being.
















The radical retuning of the house's aesthetic encapsulated in this modernist vision gives birth to the modern Dior woman, in full paradox. Sophisticated draping on a simple shirt dress, diagonal pleating that gives a symmetrical skirt the illusion of asymmetry, lantern dresses whose multicolored stripes of different widths create an optical illusion, pieces that look like skirts but are actually shorts, prints cut into strips whose main motif seems to appear and disappear according to the body's movements. It switches endlessly between two worlds, between reality and the imaginary, between the past and the future. Between real and unreal, even down to the set, a veritable tropical cascade alternating fabric flowers and real foliage painted fluorescent colors.




A decor like none ever seen, of a jaw-dropping beauty that had the guests in raptures. For the finale - in which the models usually do a lap of the runway wearing their last outfit - each of the girls appeared in a different look. Silks and wools in deepest black and metallic jacquard created unity. One could manage to pick out some of the reinterpretations of Christian Dior's that Raf Simons had already shown in the ready-to-wear or haute couture shows since his arrival as the house's creative director. However, it's not just the fabrics that changed. The looks themselves were reinterpreted once more, further extending the powerful dialogue that exists between the two designers.








Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source:
Courtesy of The House of DIOR / Sophie Carré /
ANDREA JANKE

More To Love ...


'Raf Simons set his Dior show in a jungle beneath a hanging garden of thousands of lianas and orchids and wisteria that created an extraordinarily beautiful, layered setting that seemed something of a metaphor for a collection that was jungle-dense with a mash-up of ideas.'






Saturday, 19 October 2013

Michael van der Ham Spring/Summer 2014





Michael van der Ham has a distinctly hands-on approach to conceptualizing a new collection, and his starting point is more likely to be found in the vaults of a storied French textile mill than pinned to a mood board. Having launched onto the scene straight out of Central Saint Martins four years ago in a riot of collaged dévoré, van der Ham has set up a richly textured playing field for his label, and this season lavish fille coupe jacquards caught his eye. 





The defining silhouette, an A-line shift that fell to the knee, gave a tight focus for his mixed-media experimentations. Once upon a time the hemline on a van der Ham might have swung in multiple directions before, but nowadays he’s finding more subtle ways to incorporate his signature patchwork. The translucent, burnout-like puddles in the fabric had a flattering effect on the body, alluding gently to the décolleté.

This grown-up and polished look has gathered a stable of dedicated fans, and the Dutch-born designer has been wise to keep an ear open to feedback. After several of his loyal followers asked for full evening renditions of his signature cocktail dresses, he started exploring the idea for the runway, and his closing floor-length and embellished looks took things in an interesting direction. Ditto for the spaghetti strap pieces that gathered in rounded pleats around the waist and looked as if they came in two moveable parts. Clearly there are still plenty of new places for his line to go.












































Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Runway: Photography by Umberto Fratini / InDigitalimages
Details: Photography by Stefano Masse / InDigitalimages


More To Love ... 


'For Fall/Winter 2013/14 the stylistic duo Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco presented a decisively noir mood. The cinematographic world of mystery, spying, and secrets has given life to a heroine dressed in dark shades, sado-chic suits in leather, overcoats trimmed in fur, transparent-like webbing, and the infallible trench.'








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